Celebrity dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD reviews why hyaluronic acid continues to be a favorite of dermatologists, formulators and skincare fans everywhere.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) has earned its stellar reputation as a smoothing and soothing skin-saving rejuvenating ingredient. Messaging about HA’s many virtues is so prevalent that its name is familiar even to those of us who are not cosmetic chemists. Companies everywhere (including our own Medi Lift collection and Mineral Air Skin mist) are using it as a surface ingredient and injectable manufacturers (Juvéderm, Restylane, Belotero and many more) enjoy huge success with HA dermal fillers.
Intriguing facts about hyaluronic acid:
- Hyaluronic acid is present throughout the body as a lubricant and cushion in the joints and in the fluids in the eyes
- Most of HA’s synthesis is done in the liver
- HA plays a critical role in wound healing
- Plant-based phytoestrogens in sweet potatoes, cruciferous vegetables, black and green tea and pulses can help increase HA production in the body. Bone broth and bone marrow are animal-based sources.
- Drinking water can help the body replenish HA supplies
- Approximately half of the body’s HA supply is contained in the skin
- HA production diminishes with age
- In the early days of medical and cosmetic applications, HA was harvested from rooster combs; today it’s synthesized in the lab.
But what and why makes hyaluronic acid such a superstar for skin?
Reports renowned dermatologist Dr. Ava Shamban with practices in Santa Monica and Beverly Hills, says, “In and of itself, hyaluronic is a natural, mucin-like gel with a pleasing slip. It is a major humectant meaning that it binds to water molecules by a factor of 1000. Babies have vast supplies of HA in their plump and springy skin; the over-40s, not so much.
“HA is unique in that it can be used with great effect in hydrating topicals on the skin and in injectables into it. There are not a lot of ingredients that can do that. As a formula component in skincare, it’s been around since the 1990s, as a filler since the early 2000s. It also is compatible with exfoliating retinols and can be used in tandem with it. which is a huge plus.”
With age and injury our own HA production decreases which shows up as the dryness, dehydration, fine lines and sensitivity we see in aging skin. Concludes Dr. Shamban, “Hyaluronic acid continues to be a game changer in topical skincare because of its remarkable ability to plump up tissues. Research is still ongoing as to long term benefits with daily use but you’ll notice immediate hydration benefits when using it. Let’s put it this way, I myself use HA formulations to use on my own skin.”
About Medi Lift
Medi Lift is a rejuvenating skincare collection inspired by: 1) Microneedling’s ability to deliver active ingredients deep into the skin but without the use of needles or equipment, 2) The latest developments in electrical muscle stimulation (EMS). Incorporating advanced topical research, Medi Lift’s initial two lines include Needle Lift products containing our proprietary micro-spicule-intense Golden Needle Complex–to be configured into three different three-product regimens–and the Micro-Moments Special Care Collection, a series of occlusive patches containing self-dissolving micro-tips. Developed and manufactured by prestige Japanese beauty tool specialists and product formulators YA-MAN LTD.
“Hyaluronic acid is unique in that it can be used with great effect in moisturizing topicals on the skin and in injectables into it. There are not a lot of ingredients that can do that.”
–– Ava Shamban, MD
Dermatologist, AVA MD
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