As a scalp and hair scientist, product formulator and hairdresser Philip B. shares his favorite professional haircare tweaks that can make the difference between so-so and amazing. Even the smallest thing can have an impact.
What: Before shampooing (and once a day on on-wash days), thoroughly brush the hair with a natural-bristle brush from roots to ends.
Why: Sebum–the oil produced by glands in the scalp–is food for the hair. Even though hair is technically dead, it still needs to be nourished. That said, sebum is naturally oily and waxy and can attract dirt. Natural bristles attract and transport the sebum; brushing from roots loosens dirt off and away from the scalp while moving your natural oils down the strands to help condition them.
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What: Put shampoo in your palm first and apply to your roots on warm wet hair. Work into the scalp (a silicone scalp massager will help) into a lather before working it down the hair.
Why: Concentrating at the scalp this combines sebum into the shampoo which makes for a creamier lather that can then be squeezed down the hair shaft. While you want to get info all the nooks and crannies of the scalp to get it really clean, the ends of your hair don’t need scrubbing.
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What: Shampoo with warm water, rinse with cool and then hit the hair with a cold blast at the end.
Why: Warmth softens oil and debris and helps open the cuticle for more thorough cleansing. Colder temperatures close the cuticle which helps increase shine.
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What: Wash your scalp, condition your hair. Unless your conditioner notes specific skincare benefits for the scalp (and there are a few out there), apply your conditioner an inch from the roots and work it down the shaft in sections.
Why: Oil and dirt gather at the roots, dryness starts about two inches down. Don’t tangle and scrub the conditioner but gently massage it downward exactly where you want it to go.
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What: Leave conditioner in the hair three minutes before rinsing.
Why: Most of us rinse out our conditioner too quickly. Conditioner needs time to absorb into the fiber of the hair and do its smoothing work. (Philip himself uses conditioning shower time to wash the rest of himself and pumice his feet.)
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What: After washing and rinsing, pat your hair dry or squeeze it with a towel to absorb the water. Do not scrub it back and forth.
Why: Wet hair is fragile hair and vigorously rubbing a towel over it can break it and split the ends.
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What: Dry your hair–after applying a thermal protectant–with warm (not hot) temperatures and, once dry, finish with a blast of cool air for a minute or two until your hair feels cool to the touch.
Why: While warm, softened hair will style easier, it is still more fragile and needs to be handled with care. A blast of cool air will help close the cuticle, set the style and intensify the shine.
YA-MAN SPA STYLER™ Hair Tools and Hair Products Collections are a series of heated hair styling tools and treatment products developed by YA-MAN LTD., an innovative Japanese beauty tech company renowned for its device sophistication and formula efficacy.
“After drying your hair, a blast of cool air will help close the cuticle, set the style and intensify the shine.”
–– Philip B.
Founder, Philip B. Botanicals
w philipb.com
IG @philipb
